ce, the Dreher being one frequented by
the Italians.

The _Zuppa di Peoci_ is a soup made from the little shell-fish called
"peoci" in Venice, and appearing under other names at Spezzia and
Naples, and so fond are the Venetians of it that they flavour their rice
with sauce made from it and call it _Riso coi peoci. Baccala_, or
salt-cod, and _Calamai_, little cuttle-fish or octopi, looking and
tasting like fried strips of soft leather, are native dishes not to be
recommended; but the _Anguille di Comacchio_, the great eels from
Comacchio, grilled on the spit between bay leaves, or fried or stewed,
are excellent. Another Venetian dish which I can strongly recommend is
the _Fegato alla Veneziana_, calf liver cut into thin slices, fried with
onions in butter, and flavoured with lemon juice. Stewed larks, with a
pudding of Veronese flour, are satisfying, and a sausage from the
neighbouring Treviso, which also gives its name to the _Radici di
Treviso_, is much esteemed. The _Pucca baruca_ is one of the big yellow
pumpkins baked. The wines are, of course, those of the mainland,
Conegliano from Treviso and Val Policella from Verona.

Bologna

"Bologna la grassa" does not belie its nick-name, and it is said that
the matronly ladies, all over forty, who cook for the rotund priests,
are the _cordons bleus_ of Italy. The restaurant of the Hotel Brun is
the one where the passing Anglo-Saxon generally takes his meals and a
chat with the proprietor, who is generally addressed as Frank, is
entertaining, for he owns vineyards behind the town, which he is happy
to show to any one interested in vine-culture, and he makes his wine
after the French manner. The Hotel d'Italie is more an Italian house,
and the Stella d'Italia, in the Via Rizzoli, is the typical popular
restaurant of the town. At the Albergo Roma, on the Via d'Azeglio, I
have lunched on good food for a couple of francs.

The _Coppaletti_ I have already referred to. The _Perpadelle col
Ragout_ are made of the same dough as the French _nouilles_, in narrow
strips boiled and seasoned with minced meat and Parmesan cheese. Another
variety of this _Perpadelle alla Bolognese_ has minced ham as a
seasoning. Then come the far-famed sausages, the great _Codeghino_,
boiled and served with spinach or mashed potatoes; the large,
ball-shaped _Mortadella_, which is sometimes eaten raw; and the stuffed
foreleg of a pig, which is boiled and served with spinach and mashed
potatoes and wh