, cutlets plunged in beaten eggs and fried in butter after
being crumbed, and others stewed with a little red wine and flavoured
with rosemary; and the _Cotelette alla Marsigliese_, of batter, then
ham, then meat which, when fried, is one of the dishes of the populace
on a feast-day. _Ossobuco_, a shin of veal cut into slices and stewed
with a flavouring of lemon rind, is another veal dish; and so is the
delicate _Fritto Picatto_ of calf's brains, liver, and tiny slices of
flesh. _Polpette a la Milanese_ are forcemeat balls stewed. _Panettone_
are the cakes of the city and are much eaten at Carnival time.
Stracchino or Crescenza is a cheese much like the French _Brie_.
Gorgonzola all the world knows well; and though Parmesan takes its name
from that Duchess of Parma who introduced it into France, the best
quality comes from Lodi, near Milan. Val Policella and Valle d'Inferno
are the wines to drink.

Genoa

Genoa is a town of noise and bustle. The worst curse one Genoese can
pronounce to another is "May the grass grow before your door." The
Genoese restaurants have not the best reputation in the world for either
cleanliness or quiet; but at the Concordia, in the Via Garibaldi, you
will find a cool and pleasant garden; and at the Gottardo you will
discover the Genoese cookery in all its oily perfection, for the
important difference between the cuisine of Genoa and of every other
Italian town is that all its dishes are prepared with olive oil instead
of butter.

Of course Genoa has its own especial _Minestrone_ soup flavoured with
_Pesto_, a paste in which pounded basil, garlic, Sardinia cheese, and
olive oil are used; and the fish dishes are _Stocafisso alla Genovese_,
stock-fish stewed with tomatoes and sometimes with potatoes as well, and
a fry of red mullet, and _Moscardini_, which are cuttle-fish, oblong in
shape and redolent of musk. The tripe of Genoa is as celebrated as that
of Caen, and the _Vitello Uccelletto_, little squares of veal _saute_
with fresh tomatoes in oil and red wine, is a very favourite dish. The
_Ravioli_ I have already written of. The _Faina_ somewhat resembles
Yorkshire pudding made with pease-powder and oil. _Funghi a Fungetto_
are the wild red mushrooms stewed in oil with thyme and tomatoes, and
_Meizanne_ is a small, bitter egg-plant, only found on the Riviera,
stuffed with a cheese paste and then fried. _Pasqualina_ is an Easter
pie. The figs of Genoa are excellent. The wines are those