ind that one could
possibly get at any restaurant. In its way, it is, I think, as
remarkable a performance as the 1s. 6d. Sunday morning breakfast at the
Grid at Oxford. It is, of course, not up to Chevillard or Paillard form,
but quite good enough for ordinary requirements. In the evening
everything is _a la carte_, and is almost as dear as the "set" meal in
the middle of the day is cheap. Single portions are, however, with some
very few exceptions, more than enough for two. The service is much more
_recherche_ than in the middle of the day; there is quite a large bill
of fare, and you can get all ordinary restaurant dishes, in addition to
a considerable selection of Delikatessen, such as oysters, caviar, fresh
truffles, peaches, etc., all of which are kept in good qualities.

Game and fish are also good at the Englischer Garten, and the partridges
and woodcocks are very well cooked; in fact, all their game can be
highly recommended. Live trout and other fresh-water fish are kept in a
tank, and you may generally rely on finding the soles and turbot fresh
as well. As regards price, unless you are an _habitue_ or make special
terms, a fairly little simple dinner will average out at 10s. a head,
exclusive of wine. It is well to order dinner beforehand, as the
culinary arrangements are not very expeditious. In the evening the
cuisine is by way of being first-class French art, but it just lacks the
lightness of touch which is characteristic of the best French cookery.

Wine is rather dear, but the higher-priced brands of hock, Moselle, or
claret are in some cases excellent. As to the champagnes found abroad,
unless they are specially made for the English market, they must not be
judged from an English standpoint, being as a rule far too sweet for our
taste.

An instance of this occurred to me at Rheims, when staying with one of
the champagne magnates for some shooting owned by a syndicate of some
of the large champagne shippers. We met for _dejeuner_ at their Chalet
de Chasse or club-house, each gentleman bringing his own wine. The
result was that one saw from ten to a dozen different famous brands of
champagne on the table.

My host asked me which sort I would prefer. "Du vin Brut, if you have
any," I replied. "Ah! Vous buvez de ce poison-la?" exclaimed he,
smiling. So they evidently did not agree with our taste for dry wine.
But you can make a pleasant and harmless drink of the sweet champagne in
summer by mixing it w