ting down to a meal. Ambleteuse
is another little watering-place to the north on the coast. Here the
mid-day meal at the principal inn is lengthy if nothing else.

Following the coast along, Paris-Plage has not as yet developed any
restaurant of note, and the inn at Etaples, which is the town on the
railway whence the walk or drive to Paris-Plage has to be undertaken, is
more famous for having given shelter to generations of artists, some of
whom have paid their bills with sketches, than for its food, though some
of the best _pre-sale_ mutton in France comes from the fields
over-flowed by the estuary at high tide. A goodly proportion of the
shrimps and prawns one has to pay so highly for as _hors-d'oeuvre_ in
the restaurants of Paris come from Paris-Plage, Le Touquet, and their
neighbour down the coast, Berk. Indeed, if any gourmet has a _penchant_
for shrimps and asses' milk, Berk would be his paradise. Treport
requires no description, but

Dieppe

is a place of importance, and in the days of the Second Empire Lafosse's
Restaurant in the Grande Rue used to be one of the very best dining
places in the provinces of France. Good cooking is now to be looked for
from Cabois, 74 Grande Rue, from Beaufils, Rue de la Barre, and from
Lefebvre, Rue de l'Hotel de Ville. M. Ducordet, the proprietor of the
Grand Hotel, who was the happy man chosen to supply M. Felix Faure with
a banquet when he visited Dieppe, caters for the Casino and the Golf
Club. The Casino restaurant is worthy of all commendation. The buffet at
the Gare Maritime is above the average of buffets in its cookery.

The restaurant of the Hotel Chateau at Puys, a mile and a half from
Dieppe, is owned by Mons. Pelettier of local celebrity, who has
collected an excellent cellar of wine.

At Pourville, two miles from Dieppe, Mons. Gras is responsible for the
entertainment at the Hotel Casino. The restaurant has a special
reputation, made by "Papa" Paul Graff, who was formerly one of the many
_chefs de cuisine_ of Napoleon III., and who left the Tuileries to keep
the hotel. The proprietor is very proud of his kitchens and larders, and
is delighted to show them to visitors.

Havre

is one of the towns in which the Englishman or American crossing to
Southampton or coming thence often finds himself for some hours.
Tortoni's in the market-place has a reputation for good cooking, but
judging from the two or three dinners I have eaten there, both _a la
carte_ and