e
apt to be very stuffy; and it is well to order a table by telephone in
advance. Henri's, it always seems to me, has a more tempting table of
cold viands, pates, and tarts and _friandises_ set out than any other
restaurateur's, and many of the _habitues_ at lunch-time order eggs or
fish, and then turn their attention to the cold buffet.

When dining at Henri's the _Consomme Fortunato_, the _filets de sole_ of
the restaurant, the _Noisettes de Veau Port Mahon_, the _Crepes des
Gourmets_ should be remembered. If you want a dinner for twelve, you
cannot do better than order the following, or rather select dishes from
it, for it is unreasonably lengthy as it stands:--

Hors-d'oeuvre a la Russe.

POTAGES.

Consomme Viveur.
Pailles et Parmesan.

POISSON.

Timbale de Homard a l'Americaine.

ENTREES.

Baron de Pauillac a la Boulangere.
Endives Pochees au jus.
Escalopes de Foies grand Opera.

ROTI.

Becasses Flambees au fumet.
Salade Port Mahon.
Mousse Bohemienne glacee.
Truffes au Champagne a la gelee.

LEGUMES.

Asperges fraiches. Sce Mousseline.

ENTREMETS.

Souffle Valenciennes.
Poires Gaillon.

There are several other restaurants which claim to be quite first class,
and which are smart and amusing. Two such are the restaurants facing the
Madeleine, Durand's, and La Rue's. It was in one of the little rooms on
the first floor of Durand's that the Brav' General sat debating in his
mind whether he should initiate a _coup d'etat_, and the crowd outside
waited and watched, expecting something to happen. Nothing did happen.
General Boulanger thought so long, that the decisive moment passed, and
he went home to bed. Boulanger has gone, but his friends, grey-headed
now, breakfast daily at Durand's. La Rue's was also a restaurant in
favour with General Boulanger, and I fancy that the little
dinner-parties he gave there helped much to bring the place into
celebrity. Both these restaurants have lately been enlarged and
redecorated, and La Rue's advertises a great deal, which no doubt has
increased its _clientele_, but which has not decreased its prices.
Parisian Society has decreed that it is "smart" to sup at Durand's, and
I always find it an excellent place at which to breakfast. The last time
that I took my morning meal there I found all the younger members of the
British Embassy breakfasting there, a sure sign that the place i