zebras grazed in large
numbers on the long sloping, banks of a river called Chisera, a
mile and a half broad. In going north we crossed this river, or
rather marsh, which is full of papyrus plants and reeds. Our
ford was an elephant's path; and the roots of the papyrus,
though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore to feet
usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink and
flounder into holes chest deep. The Chisera forms a larger marsh
west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a
feeder of Lake Moero.

The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; but
their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the tribes
which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been routed
by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them but Casembe;
and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people not to allow
the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. They did not
attempt to force their way, but after sending friendly messages
and presents to different chiefs, when these were not cordially
received, turned off in some other direction, and at last,
despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last
they were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to
the Sultan's letter. I am glad that I was witness to their mode
of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed a complete contrast to
the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to
be, but are not, the subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished
to depict the slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather
least objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen
subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the
land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the
Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese
half-castes from Tette to the River Shire.

Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving westwards,
our small party reached the north end of Moero on the 8th
November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of water twelve
or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and west by ranges
of lofty tree-covered mountains. The range on the west is the
highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives
off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives
the River Kalongosi (pronounced