Luao by a bridge, thirty yards long,
and more than half a mile of flood on each side; passed many villages,
standing on little heights, which overlook plains filled with water.
Some three miles of grassy plains abreast of Moero were the deepest
parts, except the banks of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the
bottom being generally black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in
the paths by the feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud,
and, as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge,
and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, half-way
up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very fatiguing. To
avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the sides of the paths,
but often stepping on the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with
both feet to keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush
of bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air of
frightful faecal odour. In parts, the black mud and foul water were
cold, in others hot, according as circulation went on or not. When we
came near Moero, the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all
perishable articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of
fishermen on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid
waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83 deg. at 3 P.M.

_18th April, 1868._--We marched along the north end of Moero, which
has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is flanked by
a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, added to the
fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted fisherman's village near
the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters for Sunday (19th). I
made no mark, but the Lake is at least twenty feet higher now than it
was on our first visits, and there are banks showing higher rises even
than this.

Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for catching
small fish; one man at each basket drives fish ashore.

_20th April, 1868._--Went on to Katette River, and then to a strong
torrent; slept at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna,
where, near the hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook
cassava and maize.

_21st April, 1868._--Crossed the Vuna and went on to Kalembwe's
village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a hut, and
manifested great curiosity to see all our things; he asked if we could
not stop next day and drink beer, which would th