or white either for that matter? I had to
feel the way with my feet and a stick. I came to a place where the lane
again divided. I tried the nearest turn. I found a trench across it
three feet deep, which had been cut by a torrent. This was altogether
beyond the capacity of our unfortunate animal, so I took the other
boldly, prepared if it proved wrong to bivouac till morning with my
'nigger,' and go on with my argument. Happily there was no need; we came
again on a gate which led into a field. There was a drive across it and
wire fences. Finally lights began to glimmer and dogs to bark: we were
at the real Cherry Garden at last, and found the whole household alarmed
for what had become of us. I could not punish my misleader by stinting
his fare, for I knew that I had only myself to blame. He was an honest
fellow after all. In the disturbance of my mind I left a rather valuable
umbrella in his buggy. He discovered it after he had gone, and had grace
enough to see that it was returned to me.

My entertainers were much amused at the cause of the misadventure,
perhaps unique of its kind; to address homilies to the black people on
the treatment of their wives not being the fashion in these parts.

If there are no more Aaron Bangs in Jamaica, there are very charming
people; as I found when I turned this new leaf in my West Indian
experience. Mr. M---- could not have taken more pains with me if I had
been his earliest friend. The chief luxury which he allowed himself in
his simple life was a good supply of excellent horses. His business took
him every day to Kingston, but he left me in charge of his family, and I
had 'a good time,' as the Americans say. The house was large, with fine
airy rooms, a draught so constantly blowing through it that the candles
had to be covered with bell glasses; but the draughts in these countries
are the very breath of life. It had been too dark when I arrived to see
anything of the surroundings, and the next morning I strolled out to see
what the place was like. It lies just at the foot of the Blue Mountains,
where the gradual slope from the sea begins to become steep. The plain
of Kingston lay stretched before me, with its woods and cornfields and
villas, the long straggling town, the ships at anchor in the harbour,
the steamers passing in and out with their long trails of smoke, the
sand-spit like a thin grey line lying upon the water, as the natural
breakwater by which the harbour is formed,