itary as I could wish. The sea washed the coral rock
under the windows. There were walks wild as if there was no city within
a thousand miles--up the banks of lonely rivers, over open moors, or
among inclosures where there were large farming establishments with
cattle and horses and extensive stables and sheds. There was a village
and a harbour where fishing people kept their boats and went out daily
with their nets and lines--blacks and whites living and working side by
side. I could go where I pleased without fear of interference or
question. Only I was warned to be careful of the dogs, large and
dangerous, descendants of the famous Cuban bloodhounds, which are kept
everywhere to guard the yards and houses. These beasts were really
dangerous, and had to be avoided. The shore was of inexhaustible
interest. It was a level shelf of coral rock extending for many miles
and littered over with shells and coral branches which had been flung up
by the surf. I had hoped for bathing. In the open water it is not to be
thought of on account of the sharks, but baths have been cut in the rock
all along that part of the coast at intervals of half a mile; deep
square basins with tunnels connecting them with the sea, up which the
waves run clear and foaming. They are within inclosures, roofed over to
keep out the sun, and with attendants regularly present. Art and nature
combined never made more charming pools; the water clear as sapphire,
aerated by the constant inrush of the foaming breakers, and so warm that
you could lie in it without a chill for hours. Alas! that I could but
look at them and execrate the precious Government which forbade me their
use. So severe a tax is laid on these bathing establishments that the
owners can only afford to keep them open during the three hottest months
in the year, when the demand is greatest.

In the evenings people from Havana would occasionally come down to dine
as we go to Greenwich, being attracted partly by the air and partly by
my host's reputation. There was a long verandah under which tables were
laid out, and there were few nights on which one or more parties were
not to be seen there. Thus I encountered several curious specimens of
Cuban humanity, and on one of my runs up to Havana I met again the cigar
broker who had so roughly challenged my judgment. He was an original and
rather diverting man; I should think a Jew. Whatever he was he fell upon
me again and asked me scornfully whether