came when they became clouded with uncertainty; and
confused, perplexed, and honestly anxious, humanity struggles on as well
as it can, all things considered, respectably enough, in its chrysalis
condition, the old wings gone, the new wings that are to be (if we are
ever to have another set) as yet imprisoned in their sheath.

The same Sunday morning when I went in search of my sermon, the hotel
was alive as bees at swarming time. There was to be a bull fight in
honour of the carnival, and such a bull fight as had never been seen in
Havana. Placards on the wall announced that a lady from Spain, Gloriana
they called her, was to meet and slay a bull in single combat, and
everyone must go and see the wonderful sight. I myself, having seen the
real thing in Madrid many years ago, felt no more curiosity, and that a
woman should be an actress in such a scene did not revive it. To those
who went the performance was a disappointment. The bull provided turned
out to be a calf of tender years. The spectators insisted that they
would have a mature beast of strength and ferocity, and Gloriana when
brought to the point declined the adventure.

There was a prettier scene in the evening. In the cool after nightfall
the beauty and fashion of Havana turns out to stroll in the illuminated
Alameda. As it was now a high festival the band was to play, and the
crowd was as dense as on Exhibition nights at South Kensington. The
music was equally good, and the women as graceful and well dressed. I
sat for an hour or two listening under the statue of poor Queen
Isabella. The image of her still stands where it was placed, though
revolution has long shaken her from her throne. All is forgotten now
except that she was once a Spanish sovereign, and time and distance have
deodorised her memory.

CHAPTER XIX.

Hotels in Havana--Sights in the city--Cigar manufactories--West
Indian industries--The Captain-General--The Jesuit college--Father
Vinez--Clubs in Havana--Spanish aristocracy--Sea lodging house.

There was much to be seen in Havana, and much to think about. I
regretted only that I had not been better advised in my choice of an
hotel The dining saloon rang with American voices in their shrillest
tones. Every table was occupied by groups of them, nor was there a sound
in the room of any language but theirs. In the whole company I had not a
single acquaintance. I have liked well almost every individual American
that I hav