prisoner. With a large escort we were taken
along the Gakkon, by barren cliffs and on a rocky road. We passed
hundreds of _Chokdens_ large and small, mostly painted red, and _mani_
walls. Then, having descended by a precipitous track on whitish
clay-soil, we reached a thickly inhabited district, where stone houses
were scattered all over the landscape. We saw on our left the large
monastery of Delaling and, a little way off, the Gomba of Sibling; then,
describing a sweeping curve among stones and boulders, we rounded the
high graceful cliff, on the top of which towered the fort and monasteries
of Taklakot.

[Illustration: TAKLAKOT FORT]

CHAPTER XCIX

Free at last--Among friends--Forgetting our past
troubles--Confiscated baggage returned--A scene with
Nerba--Suna's message delivered--How our release was brought
about--Across the frontier--Photography at Gungi.

[Illustration: PUNDIT GOBARIA]

SUCH was our anxiety, when we reached this point, lest something should
happen and we should be taken back again, that, as soon as we were across
the wooden bridge over the Gakkon, Chanden Sing and I, on perceiving the
large Shoka encampment at the foot of the hill, lashed our ponies and ran
away from our guard. Thus, galloping our hardest along the high cliff,
where hundreds of people live in holes in the clay, we found ourselves at
last among friends again. The Shokas, who had come over to this market to
exchange their goods with the Tibetans, were astounded when they saw us,
recognising us at first with difficulty.

We inquired at once, of course, for Dr. Wilson, and when we found him the
good man could, himself, barely recognise us, so changed were we. He
seemed deeply moved at seeing our condition.

When the news of our arrival spread in camp, we met with the greatest
kindness at the hands of everybody. In a corner of Wilson's tent was a
large quantity of candied sugar--several pounds; and so famished was I
that I quickly devoured the lot. Later, my Shoka friends brought in all
kinds of presents in the shape of eatables, which Rubso, the Doctor's
cook, was set to prepare.

The Political Peshkar, Karak Sing, hurried to me with a change of
clothes, and other garments were given me by Dr. Wilson. My own ragged
attire was literally swarming with vermin; our guard had not allowed us a
single change of raiment, nor would they even hear of our washing. It was
by a very special favour and on accou