en rocks and along ravines, the track being
extremely bad in some places. The general direction was 88 deg. (b.m.) until
the Tinker bridge was reached, by which the stream was crossed, from
which point I travelled some three miles to 74 deg. (b.m.), and arrived at
the Tinker village, a few Shoka houses perched on the slope of the
mountain, having for a background the magnificent snowy peaks dividing
Nepal from Tibet. From the village the track to the pass is easy, first
to 78 deg. 30' (b.m.), as far as the Zentim bridge, two miles off, where the
Dongon River, descending from 106 deg. (b.m.), meets the Zeyan Yangti,[40]
and, following the latter stream for another four miles, one reaches the
Tinker Pass, the distance between here and Taklakot being twelve miles.
At 106 deg. (b.m.) I observed a very high snowy peak, the Dongon.

[Illustration: CHANDEN SING AND MANSING ENJOYING THEIR FIRST MEAL
ACCORDING TO THE RULES OF THEIR CASTES]

[Illustration: A TIBETAN TEMPORARY SHED]

Having seen all that I wanted to see here I made my way back to Garbyang
with all speed, as I was anxious to return to Europe as soon as possible,
and I travelled down to Askote in company of Peshkar Karak Sing. The
Nerpani road had fallen in two or three places, and rough shaky bridges
had been constructed across the deep precipices, one of which can be
seen in the illustration below. We met with a hearty reception
everywhere, and kindness after kindness was showered upon us by all
alike.

[Illustration: A SHAKY PASSAGE ON THE NERPANI ROAD]

[Illustration: VIEW OF ASKOTE--SHOWING RAJIWAR'S PALACE]

[Illustration: SNAPSHOT OF SHOKA VILLAGERS BEING ROUTED]

At Askote I was the guest of the good old Rajiwar, in whose garden I
encamped, and who bestowed upon me every conceivable care and attention.
Mr. J. Larkin, hastily despatched by the Government of India to conduct
an Inquiry into my case, met me there, and, though still suffering much
pain, I insisted on turning back once more towards Tibet, to help him in
his task. By quick marches we reached Garbyang, where a deputation of
Shokas, who had returned from Tibet, came to me, Mr. Larkin having gone
on ahead. Among them I noticed several of the men who had betrayed me,
and as I was told that there was no way of punishing them for their
treachery, I took justice into my own hands, proceeding with a stout
stick to teach them some idea of faithfulness, whereupon the whole
village ran up to get the f