d compel our natives to take across into
Tibet for the consumption of those Tibetans who do not come over to our
side to spend the winter.

At Askote the old Raot who had predicted ill-luck for me when I visited
the Raots' dwelling, came to remind me of his prophecy. "I told you,"
exclaimed the old savage, "that whoever visits the home of the Raots will
have misfortune," and I photographed the old scoundrel on the spot,
together with his mates, who listened with satisfaction to the words that
came from the lips of their prophet.

[Illustration: A PICTURESQUE BIT OF ALMORA]

We proceeded with no delay to Almora, and from there went straight on to
Naini Tal, the summer seat of the Government of the North-West Provinces
and Oudh, where a conference was held on my case by the
Lieutenant-Governor.

Having there enjoyed the unbounded hospitality of that able and energetic
officer, Colonel Grigg, Commissioner of Kumaon, I paid off my faithful
coolie Mansing, giving him enough for a start in life. He accompanied me
to Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway, and showed genuine grief when
Chanden Sing and I stepped into the train. As we steamed away from the
platform, he salaamed me affectionately, having previously begged that,
if ever I should go back to Tibet, I would take him with me; only next
time he too must be provided with a rifle! That was the only condition.

Chanden Sing, who remained as my servant, travelled with me to Bombay,
and from there we went direct to Florence, the home of my parents, who
had suffered in their anxiety at home almost as much as I did in the
Forbidden Land.

[Illustration: RAOTS LISTENING TO THE ACCOUNT OF MY MISFORTUNES]

[Illustration: SOUTH-WESTERN TIBET]

[40] Yangti = River.

APPENDIX

_Letter from_ SIR WILLIAM LEE WARNER, C.S.I., _Political and Secret
Department, India Office, London._

[Illustration: "_Honi soi. qui mal y pense._"]

INDIA OFFICE, WHITEHALL, S.W.
_August_ 4, 1898.
DEAR SIR,

With reference to the request contained in your letter of the
27th, and to your interview with me of the same day I forward
herewith for your use a copy of Mr. Larkin's "Inquiry and report"
into your treatment by the Tibetans.

Yours faithfully,
(Signed) W. LEE WARNER.
A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.

*