a stream, poured water from a brass vessel over me,
standing, with my feet on snow, in a high wind and with the temperature
at 12 deg. Fahr. I reproduce it to show that even in my reduced condition I
was able to stand an unusual degree of cold. As a matter of fact, the
water that had been taken from under the ice immediately froze on my
shoulders, with the result that in a second I had icicles hanging on each
side of my neck and a shawl of ice over my shoulders.

[Illustration: MR. LARKIN LOOKING OUT FOR THE JONG PEN FROM THE LIPPU
PASS]

Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned by very quick
marches to Almora; and it was a great satisfaction to me that in
conducting the Government Inquiry in an open Court, Mr. Larkin was able
to obtain ample testimony from Shokas and Tibetans as to my treatment,
all of which was duly reported to the Government of India, and also to
the Foreign Office and India Office in London. A copy of the Inquiry and
Government Report will be found in the Appendix.

[Illustration: BATHING AT 16,300 FEET]

[Illustration: DHARCHULA. DESERTED HABITATIONS OF SHOKAS]

[Illustration: "I TOLD YOU," EXCLAIMED THE OLD SAVAGE, "THAT WHOEVER
VISITS THE HOME OF THE RAOTS WILL HAVE MISFORTUNE"]

Winter setting in, the Shokas, who had by now all returned from Tibet,
were beginning to migrate to their winter homes at Dharchula, and when we
passed the settlement many were already at work repairing the fallen-down
roofs of their hibernal habitations. A large number of Tibetans with
their sheep had also come over to winter in British territory, and their
encampments could be seen all along the road wherever there was
sufficient grass for their flocks. The Tibetans--Lamas and
officials--maintained a high-handed and insolent demeanour as long as we
were in Bhot, which they regarded as part of their own country; a fact
observed not only by Dr. Wilson and the Political Peskhar, who travelled
with us up to the frontier and back, as far as Askote, but also by Mr.
Larkin, who more than once was astounded at the impudence of Tibetans
when on British soil. It must, however, be said for them that the moment
they had come out of Bhot, and had to deal with Hindoos instead of
Shokas, their manner changed considerably. Hypocritical deference and
servility replaced haughtiness and insolence. Near the frontier we
encountered hundreds of yaks and ponies laden with wood which the
Tibetans cut from our forests, an