ear he is developing leprosy. His feet
were in a very sore and cut condition, hence he could scarcely
get along. I went over the Maium Pass and followed the course of
the Brahmaputra River for many troublesome marches, until we
reached the Neo Tsambo (river), in crossing which one of my yaks
sank and its load went down and was lost. I tried hard, by
diving and swimming in this very cold and rapid river, to recover
my goods, but failed to do so, owing to the depth and muddiness
of the water. The load contained all my provisions, some clothes,
and all my shoes, cash rupees eight hundred, my lantern, some
ammunition, and sundry knives and razors. This misfortune drove
me to Toxem, which place we reached in a state of starvation. It
had taken us several days to get there. Owing to the weak,
fatigued, and starved condition of my two followers, I had to
seek to get them food and horses, as it was impossible for them
to get on without horses. I would not desert them, as I might
have, as I was still prepared to push on despite the many
difficulties I had to encounter hourly. Toxem consisted of one
mud house and an encampment of about eighty tents. The shepherds
received us kindly and consented to sell me horses and
provisions. I encamped for the night about two miles beyond the
settlement. During the evening several persons visited my
encampment, bringing me gifts of provisions. I invariably gave
them money in return, certainly three or four times more than the
value of the articles presented. During the night I was disturbed
several times, and went out into the darkness, but failed to
discover any one. This, however, was my nightly experience; hence
I grew to attach little moment to these noises. In the morning
(August 20), two or three Thibetans came offering to sell me
provisions and ponies. While I and my two servants were engaged
examining and selecting ponies, I noticed that numbers of
villagers came up one by one, spinning their wool or carrying
bags of _tsamba_ (meal), while others arrived with more ponies.
My servants, overjoyed at the hope of getting mounts, rode first
one pony and then another to suit themselves, Chanden Sing,
having selected one, called me to see it and try it. I walked to
the spot, which was about a hundred yards from my t