thought we would not find our
way, and that if we did, we should find it very rough, and the climate
too severe; that the brigands might attack us, and so on, and so on. All
this was very tiresome, and there were signs even of a nasty side to
their attitude. I decided to know what I was about.

Still holding the rifle cocked at safety on my lap, I turned the muzzle
of it towards the Tarjum, and purposely let my hand slide down to the
trigger. He became uncomfortable and his face showed signs of wild
terror. His eyes, until now fixed upon the ground, became first unsteady,
and then settled fixedly, and with a look of distress, on the muzzle of
my rifle. At the same time he tried to dodge the aim right or left by
moving his head, but I made the weapon follow all his movements. The
Tarjum's servants fully shared their master's fear. Without doubt the
poor fellow was in agony; his tone of voice, a moment before boisterous
and aggressive, now dwindled into the humblest intonations imaginable.
With much meekness he expressed himself ready to please us in every way.

"I see that you are good people," said he in a faint whisper, accompanied
by a deep bow. "I cannot give, as I would like to do, my official
sanction to your journey forward, but you can go if you wish. I cannot
say more. Eight of you can proceed to the sacred Mansarowar Lake. The
others will remain here."

Before giving his final decision he said that he would prefer to have
another consultation with his officers.

We accorded this readily.

The Tarjum then presented the doctor with a roll of Tibetan cloth.

[Illustration: THE BARCA TARJUM AND HIS OFFICERS]

I had bathed as usual in the morning, and my Turkish towel was spread
outside the tent to dry. The Tarjum, who showed great interest in all our
things, took a particular fancy to its knotty fabric. He sent for his
child to see this wonderful material, and when he arrived the towel was
placed on the youth's back as if it were a shawl. I at once offered it to
him as a present if he would accept it. There were no bounds to his
delight, and our relations, somewhat strained a few minutes earlier,
became now of the friendliest character. We invited the party inside our
tent, and they examined everything with curiosity, asking endless
questions. They were now quite jovial and pleasant, and even occasionally
amusing. Tibetans have a craving for alcohol at all times and they soon
asked me if I had any to give th