as an
abundant growth of vegetation and especially of ferns, of such size and
variety as is seldom seen out of the tropics. An encampment of native
Indians was located on the river's bank, under the shade of a grove of
trees, adding to the picturesqueness of the scene during our visit. The
fish and forest game close at hand afforded these aborigines ample food,
besides which they had stored for winter use the acorn crop about them,
which when ground makes good bread. They were sad looking creatures, far
worse than the Spanish gypsies we afterwards saw in Andalusia. The
Merced River, which winds through the valley, rises some twenty miles
away towards the north, fed by the Yosemite Fall, a cataract unsurpassed
in height by any other upon the globe. The vertical height of the fall
is set down at 2,550 feet, though it is not composed of one
perpendicular sheet of water. The reader will remember that the lands
coming under the general term of the Yosemite Valley have been ceded by
the National Government to the State of California, to be kept in its
present wild and natural condition for all time. It must not be
considered anticipatory, in the course of these notes, to say that in
no other part of the world have we seen the natural beauty and grandeur
of the Yosemite Valley surpassed.
When we commenced our return from the valley, early in the morning,
heavy clouds hung over the mountain tops, but there was no other
indication of bad weather; so we started off and struggled upwards with
a stout team of six horses, the gentlemen walking to lighten the load
and expedite the ascent. At the close of the first hour's progress a
chilliness in the atmosphere called for extra clothing for those who
remained in the coach, and presently a thin mist enshrouded us, cutting
off all distant view. Up, up we plodded, steadily but slowly, until the
mist turned to rain and then to hail, sharp and cutting. By the time we
had reached Inspiration Point we were in the midst of a lively
snow-storm. This was not only disagreeable, but dangerous, as it
rendered the road slippery and obliterated the wheel tracks; unless
these were carefully adhered to, we might at any moment be launched into
the ever-threatening abyss. It was late in the season to attempt the
passage, and our party was cautioned as to the risk which was connected
with the expedition. The regular stages having been taken off for the
season, ours was an extra, improvised for the occas
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