in Japan.--Progress of the People.--Traveling
Inland.--Fertility of the Soil.--Grand Temples and Shrines at
Nikko.--The Left-Handed Artist.--Japanese Art--City of Kobe.--Kioto
and its Temples.--Idol Worship.--Native Amusements.--Morals in
Japan.--Lake Biwa.--Osaka on a Gala Day.--The Inland Sea.--Island
of Pappenburg.--The Tarpeian Rock of Japan.--Nagasaki.--Girls
Coaling a Ship.--National Products.

Realizing the obtuseness of the Japanese in all matters relating to
religion, it seems strange that the national government permits our
missionaries, and those from other Christian countries, such free scope,
even employing them to educate classes in English, formed of the young
men of the country. Some writers have lately spoken of an organized
persecution of Christians as existing in Japan to-day. This we cannot
absolutely controvert, but it was a subject of inquiry with us in
different sections of the country, and an entirely different conclusion
was the result of all we could learn. There can be no doubt that an
inclination to conform to the American model in government and habits of
life is rapidly growing in Japan. Every returning youth who has been
educated in the United States, or even in Europe, where many are sent
for the purpose, becomes on his return an active agent to this end.

It is especially observed that these youths come back wearing the
American costume, and they continue to do so, rather priding themselves
upon it as a mark of self-respect and distinction. A very earnest
desire to acquire the English language is evinced by the middling
classes especially in the sea-ports. Yet it is an open question with not
a few intelligent people of Yokohama, where we heard the subject freely
discussed, whether foreign commerce and foreign intercourse, all things
considered, have been of any real advantage thus far to Japan. Trade has
broken in upon the quiet habits of a people who were living in great
simplicity, and has excited desires and artificial wants heretofore
unknown to them. It has made the cost of living much greater, and a
spirit of unrest universal, without elevating or improving the people to
any appreciable extent. All this in a certain degree is undoubtedly
true. At present the common classes are satisfied with the most moderate
compensation for their services, and living, lodging, and transportation
are cheap enough. As the Japanese become better acquainted with foreig