ds like militia captains, and hens with bare crowns
like shaven priests. There were also green pigeons and speckled crows,
tame as domestic fowls, among which was seen that anomaly, a white crow.
At the tea-house where we stopped for the night, our passports,
specially granted, were taken by the local officials and returned to us
in the morning. The passport was rather a curious document, and
disclaimed all responsibility on the part of the Mikado and his
government should the holder be murdered by the way, from whatever
cause. In short, we were permitted to travel inland, but at our own
peril. It is still looked upon by many as somewhat risky to travel away
from the populous centres, but we met with no special trouble.

The natives upon the route were inclined to be a little curious as to
the ladies' bonnets and dresses, nor were they quite satisfied without
using some familiarity about the gentlemen's attire; but they seemed to
be of a soft and pliant mould, easily managed by exercising a little
finesse. It was curious to observe how entirely opposite to our own
methods were many of theirs. At the post stations the horses were placed
and tied in their stalls with their heads to the passage-way, and their
tails where we place their heads. Thus they are fed and kept. In place
of iron shoes the Japanese pony is shod with close-braided rice straw.
Carpenters, in using the fore-plane, draw it towards them instead of
pushing it from them. It is the same in using the saw, the teeth of
which are set accordingly. So the tailor sews from him, not towards his
body, and holds his thread with his toes. They have no chimneys to the
houses, the smoke finding its way out at the doors and windows, though
brasiers are used instead of fireplaces, and in hot weather are placed
outside the dwelling for cooking purposes. The men shave their heads
just where the Chinese do not, making a bald spot on the top; and so we
might go on specifying peculiarities, showing that the Japanese are our
antipodes not only geographically but also in manners and customs.

As regards Japanese art, of which every one has seen such laughable
specimens, it must yet be admitted that there is a certain artistic
element extant among the people; otherwise we should not have the
thousand and one beautifully finished articles which are produced by
them, exhibiting exquisite finish and perfection of detail. Of
perspective they have no idea whatever; half-tones and the