at of the ship's progress, and yet they increased
the speed of the Belgic scarcely at all. That is to say, these waves
exercised little if any propelling force, but seemed to pass under our
keel, causing the hull to pitch and roll so that it was quite
impossible to stand without holding on to some substantial fixture. Old
George Herbert, in his quaint way, advises people to praise the sea, but
to keep on dry land.
Life on shipboard, as has been intimated, becomes a little trying after
a week or ten days' experience. Tedium and monotony have a tendency to
bring out the less amiable characteristics of passengers who are thus
crowded together under peculiar circumstances. Even the most equable
disposition is liable sometimes to exhibit weakness. Where there are
many passengers thorough agreement becomes hardly possible. Hasty
confidences and abrupt prejudices are both the outgrowth of such
enforced association. Reading is a great and intelligent resort at sea,
but do not let the student flatter himself that he will find time and
opportunity for study. Sea-life is antagonistic to such an idea, and the
best resolves in that direction will end in idleness and disappointment.
The crew, the waiters, and the cooks of the Belgic were all Chinamen,
and it must be admitted that in each capacity the service rendered was
excellent. It seems to be generally acknowledged that when a Chinaman
knows what is required of him, he will faithfully perform the duty, and,
entirely unlike most employees, does not need the watchful eye of a
master constantly over him. The ship was well officered by Englishmen,
was scrupulously neat and clean; there was no loud talk or reiterated
orders in its management; the effective arm of discipline was felt but
not seen. To observe the Chinese passengers was a source of some
amusement. In fine weather they crowded the forward and lower deck aft,
not being permitted to infringe upon the cabin-passengers' deck. They
squatted in picturesque groups round the hatchways much of the time,
playing cards and dominoes for very small stakes of money. John is by
nature a gambler, and cannot resist its fascination. The dull noxious
smell that permeated their quarters at all times, in spite of enforced
ventilation and the well-observed rules of the ship, was often wafted
unpleasantly towards our cabins and deck, telling a significant story of
the opium-pipe, and a certain uncleanliness of person peculiar to
Africans and
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