sight was a
revelation, while all about us were tangible representations of the
impossible pictures of the cheap fans, the lacquered ware of commerce,
and the school books. The partial nudity of men, women, and children,
the extremely simple architecture of the dwelling-houses, the
vegetation, the extraordinary salutations between the common people who
met each other upon the streets, the trading booths or bazars, and the
queer, toy-like articles which filled them, children flying kites in the
shape of hideous yellow monsters, each subject became a fresh study. Men
propelling vehicles like horses between the shafts, and trotting off at
a six-mile pony gait while drawing after them one or two persons with
ease, was at first a singular aspect to a stranger. So were the naked
coolies, by fours, bearing heavy loads of merchandise swung from their
shoulders upon stout bamboo poles, while they shouted a measured chant
by which to keep step. No beggars were seen on the public streets, the
people without exception seeming neat and clean in their remarkably
scanty covering.

The houses were special examples of neatness and of toy-like size, being
seldom more than twenty feet square. All persons, foreigners or natives,
took off their shoes before entering upon their delicately-lacquered or
polished floors. This we not only did out of respect to the universal
custom of the country, but because one did not feel like treading upon
those floors with nailed heels or soiled leather soles. The conviction
was forced upon us that such universal neatness and cleanliness must
extend even to the moral character of the people. A spirit of
gentleness, industry, and thrift was observable everywhere, imparting
an Arcadian atmosphere. We saw at first no domestic animals except a
tailless cat, with an attempt at that appendage, which was a decided and
ignominious failure. These creatures were frequently tied to the house
door like a dog, but for what purpose who can say? A cat confined after
that fashion elsewhere would strangle itself directly. Later on we saw
specimens of the curious lap-dogs of the country, so diminutive as to be
quite remarkable, and which were highly prized, though one could see no
beauty or attraction in their snub noses and big, bulging eyes. Great
care is taken in the breeding of these oddities, which at their
perfection are thoroughly useless. Some dwarfing process is employed, as
they do not exceed ten inches in length w