trees and firs, and its
surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well
rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main
valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains,
spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its
many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air
laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed
"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much
better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were
as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a
small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal
village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very
common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was
certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to
the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent
butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but
like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at
the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner
sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured.

JULY 20th.--I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy
coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to
continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave
to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under
the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant
breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and
peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and
gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the
fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating
the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed
be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and
acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me
this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man,
and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded
by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never
before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue
skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice,