of the valley
lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous
ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two
portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie
is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm
which is formed into a _cul de sac_ by the mountains, and in which
Lalpore stands.

JULY 23rd.--To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley
rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of
hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of
the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the
river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth
green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the
top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with
the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid
out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages.
The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are
to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds.

JULY 24th.--A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed
and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any
shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you
know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles)
by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water
lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my
breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a
procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something
surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see
what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no
doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting
loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not
unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this
country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned
bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at
Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed.
Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very
cranky.

JULY 25th.--Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left
it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep
to