quire no further labour than the mere putting of
them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search
in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there.
Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about.
AUGUST 9th, Sunday.--On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at
Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of
large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly
along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and
secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to
describe and no musings to record.
AUGUST 10th.--Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk
we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at
Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a
small village on the right bank.
AUGUST 11th.--Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara,
where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar
to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty
from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every
pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway,
between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains.
Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be
large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half
its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains
which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached
Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the
first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of
only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small
streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the
hills.
AUGUST 12th.--Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the
camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned
from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them
being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600
feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity.
In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and
these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave,
but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too
cold up
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