pes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is
enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be
converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and
Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a
few hours five other pipes began to squirt--rendered patulous I suppose
by the pressure of the water--so that three only now remain occluded. I
had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing
my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of
beef that had been cooked but was uncut.
AUGUST 15th.--Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was
quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up
hill nearly all the way--this combined with the sun's heat--for I did
not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance--and
the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march
ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated
in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of
Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further
description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I
arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear,
render the next marches painful. Umjoo--the boatman--is now shampooing
my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches
which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without
flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it
is pleasant--now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear
them off. Oh! ----. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and
it is some sort of relief.
AUGUST 16th, Sunday.--The valley of Nowboog is small but very
picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are
covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other
trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the
grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle
slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It
is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the
eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short
distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much
more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan.
Indeed some
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