opoor for
breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife,
arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur
with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the
morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to
Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter
with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I
trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a
certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the
achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only
renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a
great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while
man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next
year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have
written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had
already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely
strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter
or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but
without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind
increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I
dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated
and we proceeded to Baramula.

SEPTEMBER 3rd.--At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on
the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze
rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against
the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered
around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles,
followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow
travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am
returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a
barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my
baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is
much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water
caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried
off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent.

SEPTEMBER 4th.--A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is
becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and diffi