cult as
on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those
at Wangut, but much smaller.

SEPTEMBER 5th.--To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march,
the hills being intersected by ravines--the beds of streams--to all of
which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the
worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than
five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long
marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have
no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and
have to walk every inch of the way.

SEPTEMBER 6th.--Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with
the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop
of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of
servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very
considerately and unlike a certain ---- ---- left the bungalow empty for
the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and
used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the
Kitta he was carrying--containing my stores and cooking utensils, went
over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind
fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so
that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which
from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum--the long
grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining
marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe
trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the
last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain;
Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail.

SEPTEMBER 7th.--Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten
miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the
Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of
hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it
was, the ascents being so steep and long--I can't keep my breath going
up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is
a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a
mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine
view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our
arriv