d
have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of
them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before.

SEPTEMBER 1st.--Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges,
a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am
on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so
that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did
when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu
to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright
clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the
valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the
last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in
days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let
rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my
departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance.
Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of
gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength,
I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I
was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own
littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has
heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars
sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and
his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when
heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the
great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and
forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic--who, not far from here, was once
"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities
of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale
there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the
plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but
though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells
around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the
distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed.

SEPTEMBER 2nd.--Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the
lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the
rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at S