d with this exception, that the footway
appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on
either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I
have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river,
where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square
block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a
small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued
the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly
flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was
slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged
into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a
winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower
still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into
requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul.
Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and
spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike.
Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their
boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several
drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point.
Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur,
with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks.
Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a
fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was
very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles
from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but
it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait
until my return.

JULY 28th.--A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with
me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies
me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the
first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and
beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring.
Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its
snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself
in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand
hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got
glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks.