ons who have anything to
communicate will send their letters to _his secretary_, and not
to him.

[Page Head: FOR ITALY]

March 2nd, 1830

To-morrow I set out to Italy, after many years of anxiety to go
there, without violent expectations of pleasure, but not thinking
of disappointment. I care not for leaving London or anything in
it; there are a few people whose society I regret, but as to
friends or those who care for me, or for whom I care, I leave few
behind.

CHAPTER VIII.

Calais--Beau Brummell--Paris--The Polignac Ministry--Polignac and
Charles X.--The Duke of Orleans--State of Parties--Talleyrand--
Lyons--First Impressions of Mountain Scenery--Mont Cenis--
Turin--Marengo--Genoa--Road to Florence--Pisa--Florence--Lord
and Lady Burghersh--Thorwaldsen--Lord Cochrane--Rome--
St. Peter's--Frascati--Grotta Ferrata--Queen Hortense and Louis
Napoleon--Coliseum--Death of Lady Northampton--The Moses--
Gardens--Palm Sunday--Sistine Chapel--The Cardinals--Popes--
Cardinal Albani--The Farnese Palace--A Dead Cardinal--Pasquin--
Statue of Pompey--Galleries and Catacombs--Bunsen--The Papal
Benediction--Ceremonies of the Holy Week--The Grand
Penitentiary--A Confession--Protestant Cemetery--Illumination
of St. Peter's--Torlonia--Bunsen on the Forum.

[Page Head: PARIS IN MARCH 1830]

Paris, March 6th, 1830 {p.282}

I left London at three o'clock on Wednesday, the 3rd, and arrived
at Dover between twelve and one. Went over in the packet at nine
on Thursday, which was not to have sailed till twelve, but did go
at nine, principally because they heard that I had got despatches,
for I had armed myself with three passports couched in such
terms as were most likely to be useful. A good but rather long
passage--near four hours--and the day magnificent. Landed with
difficulty in boats. Detained at Calais till seven. There I had a
long conversation with Brummell about his Consulship, and was
moved by his account of his own distresses to write to the Duke
of Wellington and ask him to do what he could for him. I found
him in his old lodging, dressing; some pretty pieces of old
furniture in the room, an entire toilet of silver, and a large
green macaw perched on the back of a tattered silk chair with
faded gilding; full of gaiety, impudence, and misery.

Lord Tweeddale came over in the packet, and we dined together. He
was full of the Duke of Richmond's speech about th