the entire boat is
completed.

The wooden part of the deck is made of 1/8-inch wood and scribed with a
sharp knife to represent planking. This method of producing planking was
described in detail in Chapter II.

Toward the stern of the boat and just behind the motor a hatchway is
fitted to give access to the batteries and starting switch.

The finished Sharpie hull without its driving batteries or motor should
weigh about 1 pound 3 ounces. The hull being finished, let us consider
the electric propelling equipment.

A 1/8-inch cold-rolled steel driving or propeller-shaft is used. The
shaft is 13 inches long and a gear-wheel 1 inch in diameter is fixed to
one end of this shaft. This gear-wheel meshes with a brass pinion on the
motor-shaft. This forms a 3-1/2 to 1 reduction gear, which produces a
greatly increased speed of the boat. The other end of the
propeller-shaft rests in the skeg bearing. In this present case this
consists of a tube about 1/2 inch long, which is made for a revolving
fit on the propeller-shaft and supported by a sheet-metal bracket. This
is shown in Fig. 63. The end of the propeller also revolves adjacent to
the bearing in the skeg.

[Illustration: (C)_Jack Sussman_

GETTING READY FOR A TRIP

Heating the blow-torch to a point where it will burn automatically]

The propeller is a three-blade affair with a diameter of 2-1/4 inches.
It is attached to the propeller-shaft with a set-screw. The motor is a
very simple type obtainable in the open market. It is similar to one
shown in Fig. 41. As before mentioned, either dry or storage batteries
may be used as a source of current. The writer strongly advises the use
of storage batteries if possible. The initial cost of these batteries is
greater than that for dry batteries; but, on the other hand, the small
storage battery can be charged repeatedly and will outlast many dry
batteries. If the boat is used much the storage battery will probably be
the more economical of the two.

The steering gear of the boat is very simple. The rudder works in a
bearing that is screwed to the stern piece. The end of the rudder-shaft
is tapped, and a brass screw is used to clamp it in position after
setting it with the fingers. The rudder-shaft is a 3/4-inch brass rod.
The lower end of this rod is slit with a hacksaw and the rudder is
placed in this. Solder is then flowed along the joint.

[Illustration: (C)_Jack Sussman_

ALL READY TO GO!

A little boat with st