the midship lines are exactly
vertical over each other when these layers are
glued up.

Before gluing these four layers on to the hull
proper, they should be held in position by means
of the spokes, in which position they can be sawed
to shape for the keel pattern. First, with a small
plane or sharp chisel cut down roughly, then a
rasp and different grades of sandpaper are used,
working across the joints.

It will be realized that, if the pattern for the
keel were cut off dead on the line indicated on
the design, there would be a loss of wood through
the saw cut. In order to obviate this, another
line 3/16 inch below the proper lead line is
drawn, and the saw cut made between these two
lines. You will now plane down each face that is
left rough by the saw, straight and square to each
of these lines. On the top face of the pattern
for the lead, glue or tack a piece 3/16 inch thick
along the face, and cut down the edges flush.

You will by this means have made up for the amount
of wood carried away by the saw. You will no doubt
find a difficulty in holding the pieces of wood
for planing in the ordinary way, but it is simple
enough if you set the plane nicely, grip it in a
vise or bench screw upside down, and push the work
over the plane's face, instead of vice versa. But
be careful of your fingers!

Take the pieces left from the spokes when cutting
down to length, and put these in the holes in the
keel pattern. These are for cores, and if you take
your pattern to a foundry they will cast it for a
small amount, with the holes in it.

Shoot the top face of the lead in the manner
before described, and fit on. The hull is now
ready for carving out. Screw on your bench two
pieces of wood about 18 inches in length and 4
inches wide, so that they project over the edge of
the bench about 10 inches. These should be about
15 inches apart. Place your hull upside down on
them, and fix it by nailing upward into the top
layer. After cutting off the corners of the layers
roughly with a chisel you use a s