ittings of a model that is
required for practical sailing, the better. They
should be as light as practical. Aluminum is not
advisable for fittings when the boat is to be
sailed in salt water.

[Illustration: FIG. 157]

The bowsprit fittings, which are known as the
gammon iron and heel plate (Figs. 157, 158), are
made by soldering pieces of brass tube (cut to
suitable size and shape) onto pieces of triangular
sheet brass, as illustrated. The horses can either
be of wire with the ends turned to suitable shape
and fitted with one screw, or they can have plates
for two screws, in which case the wire is either
threaded and screwed into the plate or
silver-soldered to it. Silver-soldering is done
with a blow-pipe. The flux used is borax made into
a thin paste with water. Silver-solder is bought
in small sheets, and a few cents' worth will go a
long way if used properly. Cut small pieces about
1/8 inch by 1/16 inch, and, after painting the
part to be soldered with your paste borax with a
very small brush, pick up the solder with the tip
of the brush and put it in position. It will then
run around the joint when the metal is raised to
sufficient heat.

[Illustration: FIG. 158]

The hatch-rim is made by cutting a strip of thin
brass 1/4 inch in width, the length being the
circumference of the oval. The two ends are
brought together and silver-soldered. Cut out the
oval in a piece of very thin brass and fit in your
oval strip so that the flat is just in the center
of it. This can then be sweated around with an
ordinary soldering-iron, the flat being trimmed
down afterward with the shears to leave a flange
1/4 inch in width, the latter being drilled to
take 1/4 inch No. 0 round-head screws.

[Illustration: FIG. 159]

[Illustration: FIG. 160]

[Illustration: FIG. 161]

The deck fitting for the mast, (Fig. 159) is made
in much the same way, a piece of tube being used
instead of cutting a strip of brass. To receive
the heel of the mast a fitting known as the
mast-step must be made and fitted. This, of
course, must