d transom on the shell.

The planking lines on the deck can be drawn to
suit your fancy, India ink and a draftsman's
ruling pen being used to do it, afterward applying
two coats of carriage varnish.

To paint the hull, white lead and dryers, in the
proportion of 5 to 1 by weight respectively,
should be dissolved in turpentine, a few drops of
linseed oil being mixed to make it work freely.
Have this about the consistency of milk, and,
after straining, give the hull about eight coats,
one every twenty-four hours, rubbing each down
when dry with No. 00 sandpaper. Keep the joint
representing the load water-line always in sight
by penciling over after each coat of paint is dry.
When a sufficient body of paint has been applied,
the colors can be applied. Enamel is best for
this. Stick strips of gummed paper around the hull
at the water-line, and paint up to the edge. When
the paint is dry the paper can be soaked off, the
paper being again applied, but reversed for the
other color. If you can use a lining brush the
paper is not necessary for the second color.

While the painting is going on, spars, sails, and
fittings can be made. As the spars have to be
varnished, it is best to make them first. Pine
should be used, and after cutting strips of
suitable length and diameter, plane them square in
section. With the batten draw on the face the
amount of taper to be given, and plane down to
this line, still keeping the spar square in
section. This having been done, the corners are
planed off carefully until the spar is octagonal
in section, when it is easy to make it perfectly
round with sandpaper by rubbing with the paper
rolled around the stick. The diameter of our mast
is 1/2 inch parallel until the hoist of the fore
triangle is reached, tapering from there to 1/4
inch at the masthead or truck. The boom is 1/4
inch at the gooseneck, thickening to 3/8 inch
where the main-sheet is attached, down to 1/4
inch at the outboard end. The jib-boom is slightly
less than 1/4 inch parallel.

All spars should b