The hole for the stern-tube must now be drilled,
and the tube made and fitted. The hole should be
1/4 inch in diameter. First drill a smaller hole,
and then with a 1/4-inch rat-tail file slowly open
it out, at the same time rubbing a groove down the
stern-post. The stern-tube is made from a piece of
light-gage brass tube, it being cut away with a
piercing saw to leave a strip the length of the
stern-post. Drill three holes in the strip at
equal distance and large enough to take a 1/4 inch
brass screw, No. 0 size. Temporarily screw the
tube in position, and from a piece of thin brass
make a plate for the inside. An oval hole will
have to be made in the plate to enable it to seat
flat over the tube. Solder this while in position.
Then remove the whole, and replace, after
white-leading where wood touches brass.

The deck-beams, three in number and 1/4 inch
square in section, must now be fitted. The sheer
edge which we left 3/8 inch wide must be recessed
to receive the beams, the recess being made with a
1/4-inch chisel.

Before gluing beams in, three coats of good
varnish must be applied to the inside of shell.

The deck should now be prepared and fitted. You
will require a piece of pine of ample length and
breadth, 1/8 inch in thickness, and after planing
finely and sand-papering, pieces of the same stuff
should be glued on the under face to reinforce it
where the bowsprit, keel-plate, hatch rim, and
mast will be fitted. Cut these pieces to shape
before gluing on.

Before doing the latter, apply a coat of clear
size to the upper face of the deck; this will
bring up the grain, so paper it down when dry.
This process should be repeated three times.

Three coats of varnish should be given to the
under side of the deck after the pieces have been
glued on, and when dry the deck can be fitted,
3/8-inch veneer pins being used for fixing on, and
care being taken to get it true to position. A
center line is drawn down the under side of the
deck, and marks made to correspond at the stern
an