mall plane set
fairly fine, and work all over the hull evenly,
taking care not to cut below any of the joints. A
small gouge will be required to clear the wood
from the region of the after fin, a round
rasp--sandpaper being wrapped around a small
stick--being used for smoothing down afterward.

Templates of the cross-sections should now be made
from thick white paper. This is done by pricking
through the design to transfer their shape onto
the paper. The cross-sections have on this account
been produced here actual size. If cross-lines
representing the water-lines are drawn, you will
have an excellent guide for fitting, as these
lines will, of course, come opposite each glued
joint.

Try your templates now and again as you work, and
do not try to finish one spot, but keep the whole
at an even stage, and you will see the hull
gradually grow into shape.

The topsides (which is the name given to that part
of the vessel's hull above the water-line) are
responsible for the boat's appearance when afloat,
and until the top sheer is cut off the boat looks
very disappointing. The cross-lines being still on
the upper layer, draw square lines from them down
the topsides and from the drawing mark the points
through which the sheer-line runs. The thickness
of the deck must be allowed for, and as this will
be just over 1/16 inch, the line must be drawn
this much below the finished sheer-line. The arch
of the transom must be marked, and the hull cut
down to the sheer. To avoid the risk of splitting,
a number of fine saw cuts are made down each
section line and two or three at the transom.

You now proceed to carve out the inside. Pad your
bench bearers and rest your hull upon them. A
curved wood gouge with a fairly flat edge is the
best tool. Get it nicely sharpened, and work all
over the inside of hull until it is about 3/16
inch thick, the top edge being left 3/8 inch wide.

Keep holding up to the light until it is showing a
blood-red color, and smooth down the gouge marks
with coarse sandpaper.