d
at times steep, ascent. As the sun neared setting, we reached the summit
and found ourselves close by the station of Las Sedas, the highest point
upon the Mexican Southern Railway. We had there expected to overtake
the others of our party, but found that they had hurried on. It was a
serious question whether we should try to overtake them. It had been
wisdom to have stayed the night where we were. In this uncertainty,
we met an indian boy driving mules toward Oaxaca, who volunteered the
information that he had met our companions, who were just ahead, and
that we would soon overtake them. This decided us, and we started down
the trail. A heavy wind was blowing, and the night air was cold and
penetrating. In a few minutes we met a half-breed Mexican, who,
accosting us at once, urged us to go no further. His manner was somewhat
sinister and disagreeable. He warned us that, if we attempted to make
the descent in the darkness, we would at least lame our animals. He
asserted that our comrades were fully three leagues ahead when he had
met them, and that we would never overtake them. He also hinted darkly
as to other dangers of the road, if we should succeed in making the
descent without breaking the legs of our horses. Refusing his invitation
to stop with him for the night, we pressed onward, and as we did so, he
called out derisively after us.

The descent would not have been an easy one, even in the daytime, and
in the gathering darkness there was really an element of danger in the
journey. We left the following of the trail almost entirely to our
animals. We were finally down the worst of the descent before night had
actually set in. From here on, although the road varied but little from
a level trail, we were obliged to go slowly, and it was with a feeling
of true relief that, after floundering for a while in a brook in which
our road seemed to lose itself, we heard ourselves called by name, from
an indian hut situated a little way up the bank. As usual, the house
consisted of a single room, of no great size, and was lightly built
of cane. Two men, three women, a boy, and three little girls were the
occupants. Our companions were already resting; their horses were
unsaddled and were eating contentedly, and we were told that supper
was being prepared for us. Entering the house, we found the women busy
making _tortillas_, and fresh goat's meat, hanging from the rafters,
gave promise of a substantial meal. When all was rea