takes three leaps over rocks, the highest about 40 feet; though in two
miles the descent is 312 feet. Beautifully wooded rocks rise up on
either side; and the sunshine this afternoon lighting up the wet leaves
added to the beauty of the scene. We scrambled down from the
summer-house to the bed of the river, and walked on to the foot of the
upper fall; which, though not so high as the others, was very pretty. In
returning home we had glimpses of the falls through the trees. Many of
the firs and maples are of a great height, rising an immense way without
any branches, reminding us of the oaks at Fontainebleau.
We had to change our damp clothes on our return to the inn; and after
partaking of tea-cakes, stewed pears, and honey, I am now sitting in the
public room in my white dressing-gown. This toilette, I have no doubt,
is thought quite _en regle_, for white dresses are much worn in America;
and the company here this evening is not very refined or capable of
appreciating the points in which mine may be deficient. There is dancing
at the great hotel every night in the season; but that is now over. Some
sad accidents have happened here, by falls over the precipice into the
river. The last occurred this year, when a young boy of eight, a twin
son of a family staying here, from New York, was drowned: but these
accidents, we are told, generally happen in the safest places from
carelessness. We go on, to-morrow, probably to Rochester, where there
are some pretty small falls; and on Saturday, the 17th, we hope to reach
Niagara, from whence this letter is to be posted for England.
A nigger, and our guide of this afternoon, have just seated themselves
in the corner of the drawing room where I am writing, and are playing,
one the fiddle, and the other the guitar. Perhaps they are trying to get
up a "hop," later, but there do not seem materials enough for it, and
their tune is at present squeaky--jerky--with an attempt at an adagio.
The nigger is now playing "Comin' thro' the Rye," with much expression,
both of face and fiddle! Oh, such, squeaks! I wish Louisa heard them.
Here come the variations with accompaniment of guitar.--Later.--The
nigger is now singing plaintive love ditties!
_International Hotel, Niagara Falls, September 18th._--We had gone from
the station at Trenton to Trenton Falls in a close, lumbering, heavy
coach, which is of very ordinary use in America. But yesterday morning
we went over the same ground in an
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