e made to take off our
bonnets and hats, and put on a sort of waterproof capuchin cloak and
hood, and up we went on deck. In one moment we were drenched; the deck
was a running sea, and the mist drove upon us much harder than pouring
rain. I went there with a cold, and if it gets no worse, shall think
fresh water is as innocuous as salt. It was quite a question whether the
thing was worth doing: the day was probably unfavourable, as the mist
drove on us instead of the other way, but some parts were very fine. We
returned to the same landing-place, as they most stupidly have none on
this side; so up we went again in the open cars, and on landing we had
our photographs done twice with views of the Falls as a background. They
were very well and rapidly done. We then drove William towards the Cave
of the Winds, which is a passage behind what looks from these windows a
mere thread of a waterfall, but is really a very considerable one.
Ladies, however, perform this feat as well as gentlemen, but they have
entirely to change their dress--it is like walking through a great
shower-bath to a _cul de sac_ in the rock. Circular rainbows are seen
here, and William saw two; he seemed to be standing on one which made a
perfect circle round him. A certificate was given him of his having
accomplished this feat. While he was doing this we bought a few things
made by the Indians and the Shakers, and then met William, and hurried
home in time only to sign and despatch our letters to England. We then
dined, and I am now obliged suddenly to stop short in writing, as my
despatch-box must be packed, for we leave this at half-past four for
Toronto.

_Rossin House, Toronto, Sept. 21st._--Our journey here yesterday was not
through as pretty a country as usual, and this part of Canada strikes us
as much tamer than anything we have yet seen in America. We changed
trains at Hamilton and remained there nearly an hour. Sir Allan McNab
has a country house in the neighbourhood, said to be a very pretty one,
and we shall probably go in the train to-morrow to see him. The
railroad, for some time towards the end of our journey yesterday, ran
along the shore of Lake Ontario. The sky was pure and clear, with the
moon shining brightly on the waters of the quiet lake. It was difficult
to believe that the immense expanse of water was not salt. It looked so
like the sea, especially when within a few miles of Toronto we saw tiny
waves and minute pebbles and sand,