our own windows. The moon being nearly
full, is a _great_ addition to the beauty of the scene. I have
frequently risen from my seat while writing this, to look first at the
rapids above the American Fall, lit up and shining like the brightest
silver; then at the moon on the mist, illuminating first one part of it
and then another. I must proceed with my description of our doings (if I
can) on Monday, before leaving this for Toronto, which we are to do on
Monday afternoon; but this must be posted here, and I should like to
finish my description of Niagara in this letter. We met a real Indian
to-day. He had somewhat of a Chinese cast of countenance. Perhaps we
shall see more of them. It is said that some of the black waiters in
this hotel are escaped slaves, having come to English ground for safety.

_September 19th._--This being Sunday, we went to a chapel in a village
of native Indians of the Tuscarrara tribe. The chapel was about half
filled with these poor Indians and half with visitors like ourselves.
They have had a missionary among them for about fifty years, and it is
to be hoped that former missionaries talked more sense to them, and
taught them better truths, than the one we heard to-day. His sermon was
both long and tedious, and was interpreted into the Tuscarrara language
sentence by sentence as the preacher, who was a Presbyterian, delivered
it. The burden of it was their ingratitude, not to God, but to the
Government of the United States, which had devoted an untold number of
dollars for their conversion; and he ended by a threat that this
generosity on their part would be withdrawn if they did not alter their
wicked course of life. As we were there for half an hour before the
service began, we had an opportunity of conversing with many of these
poor people, who seemed little to deserve this severe censure, for many
of them had evidently come from a distance, having brought their food
with them, and the people seemed of a quiet and harmless disposition.
Few of them seemed to understand English, and these only the men, as the
women professed, at least, not to understand papa when he tried to talk
to them. They had all of them remarkably piercing and intelligent black
eyes, but were not otherwise good looking. There were two little babies
in their mothers' arms, one in a bright yellow dress. The women wore
handkerchiefs tied over their heads, except one or two who wore round
hats and feathers. Some in hoops and