cognise him when I
say that he is always (in his own estimation!) perfectly _au fait_ on
every subject whatever, be it political, social, or otherwise, that he
always knows how many knots the ship has run during the night, and is
continually having what he calls "a chat" with the captain and
officers of the vessel he is on, returning to tell the first unlucky
passenger he may succeed in button-holing the result of his
conversation. He is also a great hand at organising dances and
theatricals on board, and constitutes himself master of ceremonies or
stage-manager at either of these entertainments. Our specimen of the
genus, however, subsided soon after leaving Naples, finding all his
lectures in vain, and confided to us his intention of "never coming
out again by this infernal line"--a consummation most devoutly to be
wished for the sake of the Messageries Maritimes.

Among our number was also an amusing Yankee, fresh from the States,
and bound for Singapore, who announced his intention of "getting to
windward of those 'Maylays' before he'd been long in the clearin'."

The arrangements on board the _Sindh_ for the comfort of passengers
were simply perfect--a roomy cabin (cool even during the severe heat
in the Red Sea), good bath-rooms, and, above all, civility from every
one connected with the ship, was the order of the day on board. The
food and cooking were excellent, fresh meat and fish, and a good
French salad, being provided for dinner daily--even during the run
from Point de Galle (Ceylon) to Singapore, in which no land is touched
at for nine days--and a good sound claret, iced, supplied at every
meal free of charge. When it is considered that the first-class fare
from London to Singapore (including the journey through France) is
only L70 5s., it is to be wondered how the passenger fares of this
line can even be made to cover the outlay.

It would scarcely interest the reader to be told how we beguiled the
long tedious days at sea with ship's quoits, "Bull," and other mild
amusements of a similar nature, or the still longer evenings with
whist; how we went ashore at dirty glary Port Said, and drank bad
coffee, while a brass band of German girls discoursed anything but
"sweet music"; how "the inevitable" made a desperate effort to get up
a dance in the Red Sea on one of the hottest nights, but was instantly
suppressed by force of numbers, determined, though well-nigh prostrate
from the heat; or how we went to th