about 500, and are quite
distinct and totally unlike any other race in Borneo. They have not
unpleasant features, are of lighter complexion than the Dyaks, and,
though not so warlike, are fine, strongly-built men. Nearly all were
tattooed from head to foot with most intricate patterns, and others
representing birds, beasts, fishes, &c., while round the face and
throat the marks were made in imitation of a beard, an ornament which
none of the tribes yet met with in Borneo possess.

Their chief "Jok," who is a well-known character in Sarawak, may be
taken as an example of the way in which the rest of the tribe were
clothed: a cloth turban of gaudy colours constituted Jok's head-dress,
from under which, and down to his waist, streamed his long black
hair. Through his ears were thrust, points outwards, a pair of wild
boar's tusks, and from the top to the lobe of the ears about a dozen
small brass ear-rings were secured. A linen waist-cloth was Jok's only
garment, while around his waist was slung the deadly "Parang ilang,"
its sheath ornamented with tufts of human hair, trophies of the
wearer's prowess on the war-path, for Jok's bravery is renowned
throughout the Rejang district. Jok was tattooed from head to foot so
thickly as to cause his body to look at a distance of a light blue
colour, but a very small portion of his face, around the nose and
eyes, being left _au naturel_. The remainder of the tribe were
unarmed, as it is made a strict rule in Sarawak that on entering a
fort or Government gunboat all arms, excepting in the case of a chief,
shall be left behind.

Arrived off the village, we cast anchor for the night off the fort,
and at the mouth of the Kanowit stream. Kanowit village consists of
three long houses, built on wooden posts about 40 feet high. They are
so built for the purposes of defence, and it is no uncommon thing in
Bornean travel to come across a whole village living under one roof.
The longest of these dwellings that I have ever seen was when
travelling up the Baram River (North Borneo), in 1873, about 170
miles in the interior. This was a house, 103 yards long, which
contained the whole village, consisting of about sixty families.

Fort Emma stands on the opposite side of the river to the village, and
is in charge of a sepoy and four Malays. It is on a good position,
armed with three small guns, and commands the village and entrance to
the Kanowit stream. It was on this spot that Messrs. Fox and St