too,
were not in the best of tempers, especially Mrs. L., who was evidently
much put out at the goings on of her better half during the past three
days.

On re-seating ourselves in the ruai, L. happened to notice the
intricate and really beautiful tattooing on the body of one of the
younger men. The latter seeing this, asked us through our interpreter
if we should care to be operated upon in a similar manner--this being
considered a great honour to a guest; and no sooner had we accepted
the offer than an old woman made her appearance armed with the
necessary implements, and with the aid of a pair of very blunt
needles, and a peculiar species of dye obtained from a tree,
succeeded, after a good hour's work, in embellishing us--L. with a
ring on each shoulder (the sign manual of the tribe), and myself with
a bird, whose genus it would puzzle most naturalists to determine, but
which was popularly supposed among the Poonans to represent a
hornbill, on the arm. Strange to say neither L.'s punctures nor mine
showed the slightest signs of inflammation afterwards, and the
figures are far more distinct than they would be had Indian ink or
gunpowder been employed.

On leaving the house we noticed several blow-pipes, a hollow tube
eight feet long called by the Poonans "sumpitan," the chief weapon of
this tribe, and in the manufacture of which they greatly excel. The
darts used are about five inches long, and are dipped in upas juice.
The slightest scratch from one of these, drawing blood, proves fatal
in less than half an hour unless at once attended to; the only remedy
being to keep the patient awake by walking him up and down, and dosing
him with brandy or whiskey. Should he once give way to the feeling of
drowsiness he sleeps never to wake again.

We were entertained one evening during our stay at Kapit by a
war-dance of Kayans on the terrace outside the fort. A large crowd of
some 200 from the canoes down river had assembled to witness the
dancing, and the bright moonlight and flaring torches shedding an
uncertain light over their dark faces and barbaric dress and
ornaments, presented a picture not readily forgotten.

A ring being formed, two of the best dancers of the Kayans tribe
stepped into the enclosure, each dressed in full war costume. This
consists of a long jacket of leopard skin, which covers alone the
back of the wearer, and comes down to his knees. This is secured round
the neck by a huge shell, and is covere