"accursed river," is rightly so called, for it has always been a
thorn in the side of the Government, and the tribe (Katibus) living
on its banks have given more trouble than any in the country, for
although closely allied in manners and customs to the Kanowits, the
Katibus are a far braver race, and less easily subdued.

The character of the country around this part of the River Rejang is
extremely beautiful, and presents a pleasing contrast to the flat
swampy marshes which line the river below Kanowit. Steep rocky hills
here rise abruptly to a great height from the river, the water of
which was so clear that the smallest pebble at the bottom could be
seen, although we found, on sounding, the water to be nearly forty
feet deep. Far away on the horizon we could discern a long range of
precipitous, rugged mountains, on the far side of which lay Kapit, our
destination.

A large war-canoe was passed a short distance above Katibus,
containing forty or fifty men of that tribe. They looked fine hardy
fellows, and much broader made than any natives I had yet seen in
Borneo, but were of far less pleasing countenance and more ferocious
aspect than our friends the Kanowits, scarcely deigning to look at the
launch as we passed them, but sweeping along down stream with a scowl
on their ill-favoured features.

The bright sunny afternoon wore away rather monotonously, for not a
living thing was to be seen, excepting occasionally a small Dyak
habitation, with its small strip of clearing whereon the owners grew
their "padi" or rice. At last, as the sun was setting like a ball of
fire behind the distant mountains, we heard the faint sound of gongs,
which announced that we were approaching Kapit.

The country around us now became wilder, and we entered a gorge, rocky
and precipitous, but less wooded than any part of the Rejang we had as
yet passed. The river here narrowed considerably, and the navigation
became very dangerous, on account of the extreme swiftness of the
current, which rushed by at a tremendous pace, carrying large snags,
or pieces of timber, with it, a blow from one of which would have sent
the little _Ghita_ flying. The dreaded "Makun" rapid, in which so many
have lost their lives, is not far above Kapit, and greatly increases
the dangers of ascending this part of the river.

We now came in sight of a fleet of some 100 huge war canoes, each one
containing about forty men, who on our appearance struck up a
tremendo