rteen. No. 4 has twenty-nine, No. 5 has
sixty, No. 6 has one hundred and ten, No. 7 has two hundred, and No. 8
has about four hundred, although on the Exchange these last two are
graded by standard types.

[Illustration: FLAT AND BOURBON SANTOS BEANS--ROASTED]

VICTORIAS. Up to about the year 1917, Victoria coffees were held in even
less favor by American traders than were Rios. As a rule the bean was
large and punky, of a dark brown or dingy color, and its flavor was
described as muddy. Then, the coffee growers began to introduce modern
machinery for handling the crops, with the result that the character of
the produce has been much improved, and the demand for it has been
steadily growing. Many roasters who formerly used Rios straight for
their lower grades, have changed to Victorias, not only to improve the
appearance of the roast, but to soften the harsh drinking qualities of
the low-grade Rios.

[Illustration: RIO BEANS--ROASTED]

BAHIAS. Until recent years Bahia coffee has been decidedly unpopular in
the United States, largely because of its peculiar smoky flavor, due to
drying the coffee by means of wood fires, instead of by the usual sun
method. This practise has been abandoned; Bahia coffee has shown a
marked improvement in quality; and importations into the United States
have increased. The Bahia coffee produced in the Chapada district is
considered to be the best of the group. The bean is light-colored and of
fair size. Other types are Caravella and Nazareth, both of which are
below the standards demanded by the majority of the American trade.

[Illustration: _Coffee Map

of

Sao Paulo, Minas, and Rio_]

MARAGOGIPE. This is a variety of _Coffea arabica_ first observed
growing near the town of Maragogipe on All Saints Bay, county of
Maragogipe, Bahia, Brazil, where it is called _Coffea indigena_. The
green bean is of huge size, and varies in color from green to dingy
brown. It is the largest of all coffee beans, and makes an elephantine
roast, free from quakers, but woody and generally disagreeable in the
cup. However, Dr. P.J.S. Cramer of the Netherlands government's
experimental garden in Bangelan, Java, regards it very highly, referring
to it as "the finest coffee known", and as having "a highly developed,
splendid flavor." This coffee is now found in practically all the
producing countries, and shows the characteristics of the other coffees
produced in the same soil.

_The Characteristics of