which daily proceeds from
the ice depot to Lima. At intervals of two or three miles there are
stations where relays of mules are in readiness. The operations of
unloading and reloading are performed with the utmost possible speed,
and the mules are driven at a brisk trot, wherever the roads will admit
of it. In the space of eighteen or twenty hours, the ice reaches Lima,
and as may be expected, considerably reduced in weight by melting. The
average loss on two blocks of ice is about one hundred pounds.[33] The
daily consumption of ice in Lima is between fifty and fifty-five cwt.
About two-thirds of that quantity is used for preparing ices, most of
which are made of milk or pine-apple juice. Ice is hawked about the
streets of Lima for sale, and all day long Indians, carrying pails on
their heads, perambulate the streets, crying _helado_.

The ladies of Lima, when they make visits, seldom go on foot. They
generally ride in the _caleza_, a very ugly kind of vehicle, being
nothing more than a square box raised on two high wheels, and drawn
by a mule, on whose back a negro in livery is mounted. Many of the
older calezas, instead of being painted on the outside, are covered
with variegated paper. The calezin is a prettier kind of carriage,
and is drawn by two horses or mules. Taste in the article of carriages
is, however, improving in Lima, and several very elegant ones have
been recently introduced.

Within the last few years a regular line of omnibuses has been
established between Callao and Lima. From each of those cities an
omnibus starts daily, at eight in the morning and at four in the
afternoon, and the journey occupies an hour and a half. To Miraflores,
Chorillos, Lurin, and other places on the coast, the conveyance is by
a _balanzin_, a sort of caleza, drawn by three horses harnessed
abreast. This balanzin is one of the most awkward vehicles ever
invented, and the slightest shock it sustains is felt with double
force by the persons riding in it. At greater distances from the
capital, the want of proper roads renders the employment of vehicles a
matter of difficulty. Even along the coast to the south of Lima, a
journey of about forty leagues cannot be accomplished without vast
difficulty and expense. On such a journey it is usual for a train of
sixty or eighty horses to accompany the carriage; and it is found
necessary to change the horses every half-hour, owing to the
difficulty of drawing the carriage through the