avenue of trees I have already
mentioned. In the suburb of San Lazaro there is a fine broad promenade
planted with trees, called the _alameda vieja_, at the end of which is
situated the Convent of the Descalzos. Along the bank of the Rimac there
is a new promenade planted with four rows of trees, called the _alameda
nueva_. Behind it the _Paseo militar_, with two rows of trees, extending
as far as _Piedra lisa_, on the road to the pleasant village of
Lurigancho. On the right of these promenades is the river, on the left
the pyramidal hill, of the Cerro de San Cristoval. At the extremity of
the Alameda nueva are the Puquio.[32] These baths are within a long
low-roofed building, covered on the top with straw mats.

On summer evenings the bridge and the Plaza Mayor are visited by
throngs of promenaders who there enjoy the refreshing breeze, which,
after sunset, is wafted from the Cordilleras, along the surface of the
Rimac. After the hour of the _Oraciones_ (evening prayers), the bridge
is crowded with gentlemen, who walk up and down whilst the ladies sit
in the rotundas built above each of the piers. Long rows of
promenaders are seen moving to and fro, either going to the Alamedas,
or returning from thence to the Plaza, to obtain refreshments. Before
the Portal de los Escribanos, on the Plaza Mayor, tables are laid out
with lemonade, almond milk and ices. The promenaders sit down on
benches, which are placed round these tables, and partake of
refreshments, none of which, however, are so delicious as the cool
breeze after the sultry heat of the day.

To the inhabitants of Lima, ice is one of the necessaries of life: it is
considered so indispensable, that a scarcity of it, during several days,
would be sufficient to excite popular ferment. In all revolutions,
therefore, the leaders carefully avoid calling into requisition the
service of the mules employed in the transport of ice. It is obtained in
the Cordilleras, at the distance of about twenty-eight leagues from
Lima. The Indians who ascend the glaciers break the ice into blocks of
about six arobas in weight, which are lowered by ropes down the
declivity of the mountain. The women and children then cover the blocks
of ice with Ichu grass (_Joara ichu_, R. P.), after which they are drawn
by another party of Indians to a depot, about two leagues distant, where
they are packed on the backs of mules. Each mule carries two blocks.
Thirty mules form what is called a _Recua_,