t a little money effect? For sixpence in that small
nice inn, I had a glass of ale, my boots cleaned, and the excrescences
cut off, my clothes wiped with a dwile, and then passed over with a
brush, and was myself thanked over and over again. Starting again with
all the spirited confidence of one who has just cast off his slough, I
soon found myself in the suburbs of Swansea. As I passed under what
appeared to be a railroad bridge I inquired in Welsh of an
ancient-looking man, in coaly habiliments, if it was one. He answered in
the same language that it was, then instantly added in English:--

"You have taken your last farewell of Wales, sir; it's no use speaking
Welsh farther on."

I passed some immense edifices, probably manufactories, and was soon
convinced that, whether I was in Wales or not, I was no longer amongst
Welsh. The people whom I met did not look like Welsh. They were taller
and bulkier than the Cambrians, and were speaking a dissonant English
jargon. The women had much the appearance of Dutch fisherwomen; some of
them were carrying huge loads on their heads. I spoke in Welsh to two or
three whom I overtook.

"No Welsh, sir!"

"Why don't you speak Welsh?" said I.

"Because we never learnt it. We are not Welsh."

"Who are you then?"

"English; some calls us Flamings."

"Ah, ah!" said I to myself; "I had forgot."

Presently I entered the town, a large, bustling, dirty, gloomy place, and
inquiring for the first hotel, was directed to the "Mackworth Arms," in
Wine Street.

As soon as I was shown into the parlour I summoned the "boots," and on
his making his appearance I said in a stern voice: "My boots want soling;
let them be done by to-morrow morning."

"Can't be, sir; it's now Saturday afternoon, the shoemaker couldn't begin
them to-night!"

"But you must make him!" said I; "and look here, I shall give him a
shilling extra, and you an extra shilling for seeing after him."

"Yes, sir; I'll see after him--they shall be done, sir. Bring you your
slippers instantly. Glad to see you again in Swansea, sir, looking so
well."

CHAPTER CI

Swansea--The Flemings--Towards England.

Swansea is called by the Welsh Abertawe, which signifies the mouth of the
Tawy. Aber, as I have more than once had occasion to observe, signifies
the place where a river enters into the sea or joins another. It is a
Gaelic as well as a Cumric word, being found in the Gaelic names Aberdeen
and Locha