uring the whole of the service as did many
others, for the congregation was so great that it was impossible to
accommodate all with seats. The ritual was performed in a very
satisfactory manner, and was followed by an excellent sermon. I am
ashamed to say that have forgot the text, but I remember a good deal of
the discourse. The preacher said amongst other thing that the Gospel was
not preached in vain, and that he very much doubted whether a sermon was
ever delivered which did not do some good. On the conclusion of the
service I strolled about in order to see the town and what pertained to
it. The town is of considerable size, with some remarkable edifices,
spacious and convenient quays, and a commodious harbour into which the
river Tawy flowing from the north empties itself. The town and harbour
are overhung on the side of the east by a lofty green mountain with a
Welsh name, no doubt exceedingly appropriate, but which I regret to say
has escaped my memory.

After having seen all that I wished, I returned to my inn and discharged
all my obligations. I then departed, framing my course eastward towards
England, having traversed Wales nearly from north to south.

CHAPTER CII

Leave Swansea--The Pandemonium--Neath Abbey--Varied Scenery.

It was about two o'clock of a dull and gloomy afternoon when I started
from Abertawy or Swansea, intending to stop at Neath, some eight miles
distant. As I passed again through the suburbs I was struck with their
length and the evidences of enterprise which they exhibited--enterprise,
however, evidently chiefly connected with iron and coal, for almost every
object looked awfully grimy. Crossing a bridge I proceeded to the east
up a broad and spacious valley, the eastern side of which was formed by
russet-coloured hills, through a vista of which I could descry a range of
tall blue mountains. As I proceeded I sometimes passed pleasant groves
and hedgerows, sometimes huge works; in this valley there was a singular
mixture of nature and art, of the voices of birds and the clanking of
chains, of the mists of heaven and the smoke of furnaces.

I reached Llan---, a small village half-way between Swansea and Neath,
and without stopping continued my course, walking very fast. I had
surmounted a hill, and had nearly descended that side of it which looked
towards the east, having on my left, that is to the north, a wooded
height, when an extraordinary scene presented itself t