it was
we acted as we did, for, had we stayed, I have no doubt that a whole
Hindity clan would have been down upon us before morning and cut our
throats."

"Well," said I, "farewell. I can't stay any longer. As it is, I shall
be late at Gutter Vawr."

"Farewell, brother!" said Captain Bosvile; and, giving a cry, he cracked,
his whip and set his horses in motion.

"Won't you give us sixpence to drink?" cried Mrs Bosvile, with a rather
shrill voice.

"Hold your tongue, you she-dog," said Captain Bosvile. "Is that the way
in which you take leave of an old friend? Hold your tongue, and let the
Ingrine gentleman jaw on his way."

I proceeded on my way as fast as I could, for the day was now closing in.
My progress, however, was not very great; for the road was steep, and was
continually becoming more so. In about half-an-hour I came to a little
village, consisting of three or four houses; one of them, at the door of
which several carts were standing, bore the sign of a tavern.

"What is the name of this place?" said I to a man who was breaking stones
on the road.

"Capel Gwynfa," said he.

Rather surprised at the name, which signifies in English the Chapel of
the place of bliss, I asked the man why it was called so.

"I don't know," said the man.

"Was there ever a chapel here?" said I.

"I don't know, sir; there is none now."

"I daresay there was in the old time," said I to myself, as I went on,
"in which some holy hermit prayed and told his beads, and occasionally
received benighted strangers. What a poetical word that Gwynfa, place of
bliss, is. Owen Pugh uses it in his translation of 'Paradise Lost' to
express Paradise, for he has rendered the words Paradise Lost by Col
Gwynfa--the loss of the place of bliss. I wonder whether the old scholar
picked up the word here. Not unlikely. Strange fellow that Owen Pugh.
Wish I had seen him. No hope of seeing him now, except in the heavenly
Gwynfa. Wonder whether there is such a place. Tom Payne thinks there's
not. Strange fellow that Tom Payne. Norfolk man. Wish I had never read
him."

Presently I came to a little cottage with a toll-bar. Seeing a woman
standing at the door, I inquired of her the name of the gate.

"Cowslip Gate, sir."

"Has it any Welsh name?"

"None that I know of, sir."

This place was at a considerable altitude, and commanded an extensive
view to the south, west, and north. Heights upon heights rose behind it
to the